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System and Appliance Malfunction Troubleshooting Around the Home



System and Appliance Malfunction Troubleshooting Around the Home

Having some trouble with that appliance? Don't have the money to call out that costly repair man? Well then take a look at this helpful troubleshooting guide. It will help you with figuring out many of your appliance problems and a method of fixing it.

Plumbing Fixtures / Faucets and Pipes

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The aerator on the faucet is broken or has a deteriorating finish. Age and mineral deposits have caused damage. Replace the aerator.
The shower head and faucet are not allowing the water to flow smoothly and quickly. Mineral deposits on the fixtures. Put one cup of vinegar in a plastic bag and place it over the shower head or fixture. Secure it in place with a twist tie and let stand overnight. In the morning, remove the bag and the mineral deposits should come off by wiping with a damp cloth.
A new kitchen faucet drips after shut off. There is air left in the lines from installation. If there is not a hand spray, turn the handle off and on approximately 15-20 times. If there is a hand spray, hold it in the sink and turn the handle off and on very quickly 15-20 times. This will remove the air left in your supply lines.
The sink drain takes longer than usual to drain. There may be a build-up of soap scum, hair and grease in the pipes. Try using drain maintenance products that can be purchased at your local hardware store. These products are designed to remove the usual buildup of soap scum, grease and hair.


Toilets

Problem Possible Cause Solution
Water is "running" in the toilet. The toilet may be leaking internally. Replace the flapper.
The toilet leaks water onto the floor. There is a leak in the supply line or there is is a leak between the tank and bowl. Check the supply line for leaks. Also, ensure the supply tube nut (coupling nut) is tightened or replace the gasket between the tank and bowl.

Helpful hint!

- Flush only toilet paper down a toilet and avoid all other paper products.

Septic Tank

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The waste lines are backing up throughout the house. The septic tank is full. After lifting the lid to confirm the tank is full, have the tank pumped.
The bathroom sink is clogged. There is a stoppage in the bathroom branch line. Use either a plunger or snake to clear the stoppage.

Helpful hints!

- Septic tanks should be inspected and pumped every three to five years to help prevent costly replacement of the leach field

- Don't deposit coffee ground, cooking fats, disposable diapers, facial tissues, cigarette butts and other non-decomposable materials into the house sewer. These materials will plug the system

- Use toilet tissue that breaks up easily when wet. Put a hand full of toilet tissue in a jar half full of water. Shake the jar and if the tissue breaks up easily, the product is suitable for the septic tank.

- Using too much soap or detergent when doing laundry can cause problems with the septic system. If there are lots of suds in your laundry tub when the washer discharges, cut back on the amount of detergent for the next similar load.

Water Heater

Problem Possible Cause Solution
There is no hot water. The pilot light is not lit (gas units). Relight the pilot (call the gas company if assistance is needed).
The pilot light will not stay lit (gas units). Turn the gas valves on and be sure the thermocouple is near the pilot flame and connected to the gas control (call the gas company if assistance is needed).
The gas is not coming out (gas units). Check the gas shutoff valve for the water heater and the house to make sure they are open. (call the gas company if assistance is needed).
There is a malfunction in the thermocouple. Replace the thermocouple.
The water heater has no power (electric unit). Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.
The safety thermostat has stopped working. Push the rest button (electric units only) and be sure the thermostat and heating elements are working.
There is a malfunction in the heating thermostats. Test the thermostats and replace if necessary.
There is a malfunction in the heating elements. Test the elements and replace if necessary.
Rust, calcium or other sediments have accumulated in the tank or pipes. Flush the tank and pipes to remove the sediments build-up.
There is not enough hot water. The thermostat is set incorrectly. Adjust the thermostat to a higher setting.
Heat is getting lost in the pipes. Insulate the hot water pipes.
The hot water faucets leak. Repair or replace if necessary.
There is a malfunction in the heating elements. Test the elements and replace if necessary.
Rust, calcium or other sediment has accumulated in the tank. Turn off the power. Flush the tank to remove the sediment.
The orifices on the burner are clogged. Turn off the heater, wait for it to cool and clean out the clogged orifices.
The water is too hot. The thermostat is set incorrectly. Turn down the thermostat.
There is not enough insulation around the thermostat. Tighten the insulation around the thermostat.
There is a malfunction in the heating thermostat. Test the thermostats and replace necessary.
There is a malfunction in the heating elements. Test the elements and replace if necessary.
The exhaust vent is clogged (gas unit). Clean the vent to remove the clog.
The water heater is leaking. There is a leak in the drain cock, element seal or element gasket. Tighten or replace the seal gasket.
The safety valve is leaking. If the water is too hot, steam will be released through the safety valve. Turn down the thermostat. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.
Rust, calcium or other sediment has accumulated in the tank. Flush the tank to remove the sediment.
The water heater makes unusual noises. Scale has formed on the heating elements (electric units only). Remove the heating elements. Soak them in vinegar and gently remove the scale.
Rust or sediment has accumulated in the tank. Flush the tank to remove sediment.
Sediment or rust colored water is coming through the faucets. Scale has formed on the heating elements (electric units only). Remove the heating elements. Soak them in vinegar and gently remove the scale.

Helpful hints!

-Flush out the water heater twice a year to keep sediment from accumulating at the bottom of the tank. Be sure to turn off the power to the unit first.

Garbage Disposal

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The motor will not work or turn on. There is no power to the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.
The on/off switch may be defective. Check the stopper switch (batch feed model) or the wall switch (continuous feed model). Repair or replace as needed.
The overload protector (reset) switch on the unit has tripped. Ensure the unit is not jammed and push the reset button (usually located on the bottom of the unit) to restore power to the unit.
The breaker trips when the disposal is turned on. Too many appliances are plugged into the circuit. The disposal needs its own 15-amp circuit outlet.
The motor makes a humming noise. The impeller/blades are jammed. After turning off the power to the disposal, use tongs or pliers to clear all items that are jamming the blades. Insert an allen wrench that fits into the bottom of the unit and turn the allen wrench back and forth several times until the motor is free. Push the reset button when you are done to restore power to the unit.
The disposal is making an unusual amount of noise. There is a metallic or other hard object in the unit. Inspect the unit and remove the object with tongs or pliers.
The mounting screws are loose. Tighten the mounting screws at the top of the disposal, where it mounts to the bottom of the sink flange.
The disposal is leaking. The sink/drain connection is loose. Secure the flanges surrounding the gasket (between the disposal and the sink) or replace the rubber gasket if necessary.
The garbage disposer takes too long to grind all the food. There is not enough water. When using the disposal, run more cold water.
There is improper waste in the disposal. After turning off the power to disposal, use tongs or pliers to clear all items that are not acceptable for the disposal (for example, potato and carrot peels or stringy vegetables).
The disposal runs slowly or drains slowly. There is not enough water. When using the disposal, run more cold water.
The drain line is clogged. Run hot water to clear any clogged grease. Remove the drainpipe if it needs to be unclogged (NOTE: do not use harsh chemicals to clear the drain).
The disposal is not grinding finely enough. Replace any dull or damaged parts.
The disposal has a foul odor. Food has been sitting in the disposal too long before being disposed. To eliminate the odor, pour baking soda down the drain or grind up a citrus rind.

Helpful hints!

- Always run cool water during use and for at least two minutes after you finish to help prevent stoppages.

- Avoid putting potato and carrot peels or stringy vegetables down the disposal.

- Once a week, grind several lemon or orange rinds in your disposal to help eliminate odors.

- Never put your hand in the disposal to clear a jam. turn off power to the unit and use tongs or pliers to clear the debris.

- Always use cold water in your disposal to avoid liquefying the grease.

Dishwasher

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The dishwasher will not turn on. The door is not locked/latched. Be sure the door is securely shut and latched.
The unit is plugged into the wrong receptacle. If the unit is plugged into a receptacle shared with the disposal, make sure the plugs are not reversed.
The timer or selector button is in the wrong position. Adjust timer and/or selector buttons to the correct positions.
Power is not reaching the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in and reset the breaker, if necessary.
The door switch is malfunctioning. Inspect the door switch for damage. Repair or replace as needed.
The timer is defective Replace the timer
The dishwasher does not fill with water. The water valve is not turned on. Make sure the water valve is in the "ON" position (it may be located under the sink, under the floor in the basement or in a closet behind the wall).
The water filter is clogged. If the unit has one. Clean the water intake valve filter.
The overflow switch is malfunctioning. Check the switch. the unit will not fill if the switch sticks in the "FULL" position
The timer is defective. Replace the timer.
Water continually runs. The water intake valve is stuck. Inspect the valve and make sure it is shut.
The overflow switch is malfunctioning. Check the switch. The unit will not fill if the switch sticks in the "EMPTY" position.
The timer is defective. Replace the timer.
The dishes are still dirty at the end of the wash. The water is not hot enough. Run the water in the kitchen sink until it gets hot. Then turn on the dishwasher. This will ensure that it fills up with hot water. Verify that the water is between 140ºF and 150ºF.
Heavy debris and food were not removed from the dishes prior to loading. Pre-rinse dishes before loading into the dishwasher.
The dishes are not loaded properly. Dishes should be faced towards the water spray and should not be touching each other.
The detergent is old. Replace with new detergent.
The spray arms are blocked. Be sure nothing is blocking the spray arms
The soap dispenser will not open. There is soap build-up in the soap cup. Remove hardened detergent from the soap cup and clean with vinegar.
The soap dispenser lid is blocked. Remove any obstructions blocking the lid.
The dishes are wet. There are mineral deposits on the heating element. Wash the element gently with vinegar.
The heating element wire is loose. Secure all electrical connections around the heating element.
The heating element has burned out. Replace the heating element.
The timer is defective. Replace the timer.
The dishwasher is leaking water. The door seal is damaged. Replace the door seal.
The overflow switch is defective. Check the damage to the switch and replace if necessary.
The heating element nuts are loose. Check for loose nuts that attach the tub to the element and tighten them.
The hose clamps are loose. Check for loose houses and tighten clamps (you may need to move the dishwasher).
The door hinges are broken. Replace the door hinges.
You are using liquid soap. Stop using liquid soap and switch to powder soap.
The dishwasher is making unusual noises. The spray arm is hitting the dishes. Adjust the dishes to ensure they do not obstruct the spray arms.
The water intake valve is damaged causing a knocking sound when the unit fills. Replace the washer intake valve.
There is not enough water in the unit. Avoid using other faucets while the dishwasher is running.
The dishwasher is not draining and leaves standing water in the tub (Note: one to two cups of remaining water is normal). There is a kink or clog in the drain hose. Clear the drain hose by disconnecting and blowing through it.
There is a clog in the air gap (small cap located on the counter top or sink deck). Take the air gap cover off and remove any debris from the air gap.
The pump is blocked. Check the pump area in the rear of the tub for paper or large objects.
The kitchen sink drain is clogged. Since the dishwasher drains into the kitchen sink and often the disposal, run the disposal to clear any food and unclog the drain if necessary.
Water is leaking out of the air gap. There is a clog in the hose that runs from the air gap to the disposal. Detach the line and remove any clogs. Replace the hose.

Helpful hints!

- Avoid liquid soap, which can over-sud and cause water to drip from the door.

- Regularly clean debris from the spray arms.

- If your dishwasher is stained, fill the detergent cup with powdered orange or lemon drink and let the washer run through its normal cycle.

- Add a rinse agent to cut down on film.

- When loading dishes, be sure the dishes do not block and/or damage the spray arm and face the dishes toward the spray for the best cleaning results.

Electric Cook top/Range/Oven

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The range will not turn on. Power is not reaching the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.
One of the burners does not turn on. If the unit has an electronic control, it may need to be "reset". If there is power to the unit and it has an electronic control, disconnect the power for 15-30 minutes and re-try
The element is not properly plugged in. Unplug the burner and reinstall to a fully seated position to ensure it is securely plugged in
The burner is defective. Remove the burner and plug it into another burner receptacle of the same size. turn on the element. if it still does not work, replace the element.
Oven is in the self-clean cycle. This cycle requires a high amount of power. The stove may not be able to work at the same time as the self-clean cycle
The wiring, terminal block or switch is defective. Check each part and replace if necessary.
A burner does not cook well. The cooking pan is the wrong size. Use flat-bottomed pans that just cover the element.
The element is damaged. Replace the element.
The timer is not working. The timer has not been set correctly. See the owner's manual for specific instructions.
The timer fuse has blown. Check the fuse in the timer circuit.
There are loose connections. Turn the power off and tighten all loose electrical connections.
The timer has a malfunction Replace the timer
The oven overheats. The vent is clogged. Clear the vent to eliminate the clog. If necessary replace air filter.
The oven does not hold the temperature that was set. The door gasket is damaged. Replace the door gasket.
The thermostat is not calibrated correctly. Call the manufacturer who will help you re-calibrate the unit over the phone.
There is a lot of condensation/moisture in the oven. The vent is clogged. Clear the vent to eliminate the clog. If necessary, replace the air filter.
The door does not close properly. Inspect the door hinges and gasket. Repair or replace as needed.
The light in the oven does not work. The bulb is burned out. Turn off the oven and replace the bulb with the correct type and size.
There is a defective switch or poor wiring to the bulb socket. Test the switch and wiring. Replace parts as needed.
The oven door does not close properly. A hinge or spring is malfunctioning. Replace the defective part.
Features on the control panel are not working. A fuse has blown. Check the fuse in the accessory circuit.
The oven's self-clean function is not working. The door is not locked. Securely shut and re-latch the door and then restart the self-clean cycle.

Helpful hints!

- To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pans.

- Regularly remove any grease or food build-up around the burners and connections.

- If you have a self-clean oven, DO NOT use any other method to clean.

Gas Cook top/Range/Oven

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The oven or burners will not ignite. The pilot light is out. Relight the pilot (call the gas company is assistance is needed).
Gas is not on. Ensure the gas valve is open. If necessary, contact the local gas company.
The burner is not properly set (sealed burner unit). Make sure the cap is seated properly, is not tilted and does not rock or wobble. Ensure the cap matched the burner size. Your unit may have one or more burners that are different sizes and you want to make sure a small cap is not on a large burner.
The burner will not stay on. The pilot port is clogged. Clear the port with a toothpick, small wire or pipe cleaner.
The unit is located in a drafty area. Try to avoid drafts near the range.
The flame is not steady. The burner is clogged. Clean the burner surface and ports.
There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air. Contact the local gas company.
The burners leave soot or make an unusual noise. There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air. Contact the local gas company.
The oven overheats or bakes unevenly. The oven was not pre-heated. Allow your oven to preheat before baking. Since many items have a short cooking time, failure to preheat dramatically affects cooking results.
Circulation in the oven is affected by placement of aluminum foil in the oven. If you use aluminum foil on your oven shelf, never cover the entire shelf. This will block the circulation of the heat in the oven. Allow two inches around the back and sides of the oven shelf for proper heat circulation.
The exhaust vent is clogged. Clean the vent then eliminate the clog. If necessary, replace the air filter.
The calibration needs to be adjusted. call the manufacturer who will help you re-calibrate the unit over the phone.
The door gasket is damaged. Replace the door gasket.
The oven door will not open. The self-clean dials are in the "ON" position. Reset the self-clean dials to the "OFF" position.
There is a gas odor at the unit. The pilot is not lit. Ventilate the room and relight the pilot.
The gas line is leaking. Extinguish all flames. Do not turn on any electrical switches. Immediately notify the local gas company.

Helpful hints!

- To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pans.

- Regularly remove any grease or food build-up around the burners and connections.

- If you have a self-clean over, DO NOT use any other method to clean.

Microwave Oven

Problem Possible Cause Solution
There is small spots/holes in the interior lining. Food particles are stuck to the walls and need to be removed regularly, before damage begins. Boil a cup of water mixed with two tablespoons of lemon juice or baking soda for 3-5 minutes. The steam will loosen the food that can then be wiped away.
The touch pad does not operate correctly. Power is not reaching the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in check for a blown fuse and reset.
The clock is not set. Set the clock.
Improper programming or a program sequence was entered. Press "CLEAR" and start over. Sometimes, improper programming or a program sequence, such as delay start, can cause the though pads to be non-responsive.
The turntable is not turning. The turntable is not set in properly. Set the turntable securely on the turntable motor and ensure it is centered, or it will not turn.
The turntable was placed upside-down. Turn the turntable right side up. If the turntable is upside-down it will drag on the floor of the microwave.
A "timer" function was selected. Ensure a "cook" function is selected.
There is a popping noise or arching in the unit. The unit was turned on when it was empty. Always have something in the microwave when in use.
Metal or metallic trimmed items were placed in the microwave. Never use metal or metal trimmed utensils and serving pieces in the microwave cavity.
The metal cooking rack that comes with the unit is not set in place correctly. Be sure the rack is firmly in place and not upside-down.

Helpful hints!

- Do not use pans or dishes that are metal or have metallic trim.

- Use only mild soap and/or baking soda to clean interior of the microwave.

Trash Compactor

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The compactor will not turn on. Power is not reaching the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse or tripped breaker and reset.
The safety lock is not on. Turn on the safety lock.
The drawer is open. Be sure the door is shut securely and remove anything that keeps it from closing.
The load does not compact completely. The ram has seized up. Oil the ram screws or replace the screws if they are stripped.
The chain drive, gears or pulley are loose or broken. Check the chain and tighten or replace if necessary
A breaker trips or a fuse blows during the compactors cycle. There are too many appliances on one circuit. The unit may need its own circuit.
There is a short in the cord, plug, or switch. Be sure the cord, plug and switch work.
The compactor makes loud noises. The drive chain is loose. Tighten the drive chain.
The unit needs to be greased. Oil the unit.
There are loose parts. Tighten all screws and bolts.
The compactor door is stuck shut. The ram stalled Be sure the unit is closed and plugged into the outlet. if necessary, inspect for a broken chain, belt, pulley or drive screw
The compactor will not stop running. The top-limit switch is malfunctioning. Unplug the unit and be sure the switch works.
There is a defect in the start/stop switch. Inspect and replace the switch, as necessary.
Trash spills out of the compactor. The bag is not installed properly. Be sure the bag and clips are secure.
The compactor has an unusual odor. The deodorant is empty. Replace the deodorant.
The aerosol nozzle on the deodorant is clogged. Clear the clog using a thin wire or by running the nozzle under warm water.

Helpful hints!

- Replace the deodorant regularly to prevent odors.

- Before use, check that the bag is in the proper position and that the retainer ring and clips are securely in place.

Refrigerator & Freezer

Problem Possible Cause Solution
No power and/or motor is not turning on, interior light(s) not working. There is no power at the outlet or the unit has come unplugged. Check to see if the unit is still plugged in. if it is plugged in, use a hair dryer or radio to test the outlet to be sure the outlet is working. Check for a blown fuse and reset. If it continues to blow the fuse, the unit may need its own designated circuit.
The unit has power, the motor is clicking occasionally and the light is on, yet it is not cooling. The condenser coils are dirty. Clean the coils by gently vacuuming.
The unit cools poorly, cycles off and on, or is constantly on. The condenser fan is malfunctioning (frost-free type). Inspect the fan. Repair or replace as needed.
The thermostat is on the wrong setting. Adjust the temperature setting. If the thermostat is adjusted to 34ºF or under, try keeping the refrigerator at 40ºF instead
The condenser coils are dirty. Clean the coils by gently vacuuming.
The door gasket is damaged, allowing air to escape. Inspect the gasket and replace, as needed.
There is heavy frost accumulating Defrost the unit regularly.
The weather is hot and humid. If the unit runs continuously but cools correctly, there is no malfunction with your unit. Try to cool the room
Heat is coming from the light because it is not turning off when the door is closed. Push each switch button (one at the light and one near the door). Make sure they are not stuck.
The unit makes unusual noises. The unit is not sitting level. Level the unit.
The drain pan rattles. Center the pan so it does not touch the sides and is clear of the compressor.
The fan blades are blocked by something. Be sure the evaporator and compressor fans are not obstructed.
The unit ices up quickly or will not defrost. The door gasket is damaged. Replace the door gasket, as necessary.
Foods are left uncovered. Cover and seal all foods and liquids.
The drains are clogged. Clean all drains.
The defrost, timer, heater or thermostat is damaged. Check the timer, heater and thermostat defects.
The drain hose or drain pan is cracked Replace any broken parts.
The refrigerator leaks water underneath or inside. The drains are clogged or the drain pan is full. Clear all drains and be sure the drain pan is empty.
The drains are clogged. Flush and clear all drains.
The refrigerator has an unusual odor. The drain pan is dirty. Clean and disinfect the drain pan.
Food has fallen under "crisper" or "meat" drawers. Remove the drawer and clean.

Helpful hints!

- Clean the interior shelves, shell and gaskets quarterly.

- Clean the coils on the back or underneath annually.

- Remove odors from your fridge by placing a cotton ball soaked in vanilla extract, a cup of backing soda or a slice of lemon in the fridge at all times.

Clothes Washer

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The unit will not turn on. The outlet does not have power. Ensure unit is plugged in. Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker.
The safety switch has tripped. Distribute the clothes evenly in the machine and be sure the lid is completely closed.
The house inlet valve may not be open. Open the valve.
The machine does not fill with water. There is no water supply. Make sure the water valve is turned on.
The filters are clogged. Clean the inlet hose filters.
There is a kink in one of the water hoses. Straighten all water hoses.
The timer is not set. Slightly turn the timer, ensuring all buttons are set correctly.
The control button for the water is not pushed in all the way. Push in the button to make sure it is fully depressed.
The unit is not draining. The drain hose is kinked. Straighten the drain hose.
The position of the drain hose is too high. Do not position drain hoses higher than 4 feet above the floor.
The lid is not closed completely. The washer drains and spins at the same time, so the lid must be down.
The unit fills with water but does not run. The lid safety switch is tripped. Make sure the lid is firmly attached and closed. Test the switch.
There is too much laundry in the tub. Take some items out and give the machine 15 minutes to reset the cycle.
The timer is defective Replace the timer.
The motor runs, but the unit does not agitate or spin. The drive belt is loose or broken. Tighten or replace the drive belt as necessary.
The water is not hot enough. The water heater setting is too low. Set the thermostat on the water heater to between 140ºF and 160ºF.
The water supply hoses are improperly connected. Reconnect the hot water hose to the hot water side and the cold water hose to the cold water side.
There is a defect in the mixing valve or timer. Replace the valve or timer.
The water runs continuously The overflow switch hose is disconnected. Replace the water hose.
The overflow switch, timer or mixing valve is defective. Replace the overflow switch, timer or mixing valve as necessary.
The unit is leaking water. The hose connection is loose. Tighten the connection.
The gasket, mixing valve, hoses, overflow switch or sensor is defective. Replace the defective part or parts as necessary.
The unit shakes or vibrates across the floor. Machine load is not level. Level the machine and distribute clothes evenly in tub.
There is a loose/defective hose connection. Tighten or replace the connection.

Helpful hints!

- Adjust the level of your washing machine by turning the legs clockwise to lower them or counter-clockwise to raise them.

- To clean your washing machine, fill it with warm water and pour a gallon of distilled vinegar into it. Run the machine through an entire cycle. The vinegar will clean the hoses and unclog the soap scum.

- To remove odors inside of the washer, fill with hot water, then set for regular speed and longest time. Add a cup of baking soda. Allow washer to complete entire wash and rinse cycle. If odor lingers, repeat entire process.

Clothes Dryer

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The unit will not turn on. The door is open. Shut the door securely.
No power is reaching the unit. Ensure the unit is plugged in. Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker if needed.
The motor wiring is loose. Tighten all loose electrical connections.
There is a defect in the door switch, centrifugal switch or timer. Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.
The drum is stuck, though the motor still runs. The drum is blocked. Free the drum from any obstructions.
The drive belt is broken. Replace the drive belt.
The support wheel or idler wheel assembly is broken. Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.
The clothes don't dry, though the drum turns. There is a clog in the lint trap or exhaust vent. Clear the trap and vent.
The safety thermostat, heating element or timer is defective. Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.
The load takes a long time to dry. There is a clog in the lint trap or exhaust vent. Clear the trap and vent.
The dryer is overloaded. Remove some items and dry the load again.
The clothes are too wet. Ensure the spin cycle is completed in the washer and remove some clothes to dry to load again.
The fan is loose. Check the fan and tighten if necessary.
The door gasket is damaged. Replace the door gasket.
The unit does not stop drying at the end of the cycle. The timer is defective. Replace the timer.
The dryer is making a squeaking noise. Loose cabinet screws may cause squeaks. Check all exposed screws and make sure they are tight.
Foreign objects are causing squeaks. Check for foreign objects in the drum and below the lint trap.

Helpful hints!

- Clean the lint screen after each load of clothes.

Heating System.

Problem Possible Cause Solution
There is no heat. There is no power to the unit. Ensure unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.
The blower belt is broken. Replace the belt.
The rooms are not warm enough. The filter is dirty. Replace the filter.
The registers are dirty. Clean and vacuum the registers and ensure they are open.
There are air leaks in the ducts. Seal the leaks with duct tape.
The ducts are blocked. Remove any objects that are blocking the duct.
A register is closed. Open all registers.
The duct damper is in a incorrect position. Adjust the dampers to correct.
The blower belt is loose. Tighten the blower belt.
Soot gather in the house. The filter is dirty. Replace the filter.
The ducts are dirty. Have the ducts professionally cleaned.
The blower makes unusual noises. The pulley is loose. Tighten the pulley screws.
A belt is worn out or the tension is too tight. Replace the worn belt or loosen the tension.
The blower bearing need oil. Oil the bearings.

Helpful hints!

- clean and/or replace filters once a month.

- one month before the start of heating season, have maintenance performed on your heating system.

- open window shades and awning to increase direct sunlight entering your home and lower heating costs.

Air Conditioning System

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The unit will not turn on. There is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. Check the circuit breaker and replace the fuses in the disconnect box (always turn off the breaker before replacing the fuses).
The air is not cool enough. The condenser coil is dirty. Remove all debris from and around the unit so that air can properly circulate through the fans and replace/clean the filters.
There is direct sun on the evaporator unit. Create shade for the unit.
The insulation has fallen off the feed line. Reattach any loose insulation and replace any worn-out insulation.
There may be a clog in the evaporator unit or something blocking the fan. Clean out the evaporator unit.
The unit constantly cycles off and on. The filter is dirty. Replace or clean the filter.
Water is leaking into the walls or ceiling (attic installation). The drain hose from the condenser pan is clogged. Unclog the hose so water can empty through it.

Helpful hints!

- clean and/or replace the filters once a month.

- keep the condensing unit free of debris by vacuuming dust and lint from the registers regularly.

- one month before air conditioning season, have maintenance service done on your system.

- use window shades and awning in the summer to reduce the amount of sunlight entering your home and lower cooling costs.

Electrical System

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The lights or outlets do not work. There is no power to the outlet or fixture. Be sure all switches at the fuse box are in the "ON" position and no fuses have blown. Unplug all appliances and reset the breaker.
The gfi outlet if it has been tripped. Reset the gfi.
The outlet or switch is defective. Replace the outlet or switch.
There is no power to the entire house or half of the house. There is a tripped circuit breaker. Reset the circuit breaker and replace any fuses, as necessary.

Helpful hints!

hints! - to prevent power outages, be sure to avoid overloading circuits with too many appliances or fixtures.

Pool/Spa Equipment

Problem Possible Cause Solution
The pump has no power. The motor is not receiving power. Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker. Be sure the timer is set correctly. Oil the motor as necessary.
The water level is too low and the prime has been lost. Add water to the pool/spa.
The pump will not prime. The valves are not in the correct position. Correct the valve position.
There are leaks in the suction line. Locate and repair leaks.
The heater is not working. The pilot is not lit. Light the pilot.
The gas valve is on the pilot setting (gas heater). Turn the pilot setting to the "ON" position.
The unit is not receiving gas. Be sure the gas cock is in the correct position.
There is no power to the unit. Reset the circuit breaker or relight the pilot.
Pressure switch tripped due to a dirty filter. Backwash the filter.
The water pressure is too low or too high. The filter is dirty or blocked. Backwash the filter and lean cartridge.
The skimmer and pump basket are clogged. Clean the skimmer and pump basket.
The valves are in the wrong position. Correct the valve position.
There is a water leak. Locate and repair the leaks.
The filter is not working. The circuit breaker has tripped. Reset the circuit breaker.
The motor is not plugged in or the timer is not set properly. Plug in the motor and reset the timer.
The filter is clogged. D.E. filter - backwash or replace.
Sand filter - replace sand.
Cartridge filter - remove and clean cartridge.

Helpful hints!

- Maintain proper water level at all times.

- keep the pool chemically balanced. Most pool supply stores will test a sample of your pool water for free.

-consult your pool and spa company for specific suggestions on maintaining your particular system.
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